Hydro Jetting
High-pressure water clears grease, roots, and years of buildup from a line that a cable snake can only punch a hole through.
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A store-bought drain snake handles some clogs just fine. Here's how to tell which ones and which ones you're better off not touching.
By the Plumbing Guys Fort Collins team · Published April 27, 2026
A drain's venting, the pipe that lets air into the system so water can flow smoothly rather than glugging and gurgling, is often overlooked when homeowners troubleshoot a slow drain themselves. A partially blocked or improperly sized vent can mimic the symptoms of a simple clog even when the drain line itself is perfectly clear.
A basic hand-crank drain snake or a plastic zip-style clog tool works reasonably well on a simple, shallow clog: hair in a bathroom sink trap, a small food blockage right at a kitchen drain, or a bathtub drain slowed by soap scum and hair near the surface. These clogs sit close to the fixture and don't require much reach or torque to clear.
If you're going to try it yourself, a few basics help: never use chemical drain cleaner before or after mechanical snaking, since the chemicals can splash back and the residue makes the job messier and more hazardous for whoever handles it next.
A hand-crank snake typically only reaches a few feet into a line, which is nowhere near enough for a clog in the main sewer line or one that's built up well past the fixture trap. Pushing a small tool hard against real resistance can also crack an older pipe joint, turning a clog into a leak.
Recurring clogs are the other clear signal to stop DIY-ing it. If the same drain clogs again within weeks of clearing it yourself, something structural is going on, root intrusion, a bellied section of pipe, or grease buildup further down the line, that a short snake simply can't reach or diagnose.
Dealing with this in Fort Collins right now? Call and describe what's happening, we answer 24/7.
Call now: (970) 717-5921Water backing up into a different fixture when you run the washing machine or flush a toilet is a strong sign the blockage is in the main line, not an individual fixture drain, and that's a job for professional equipment and, often, a camera to see what's actually happening.
A gurgling sound from drains across the house, standing water that won't budge with any amount of plunging, or a sewage smell are all signals that this has moved past a simple clog into something that needs a proper diagnosis, potentially including sewer camera inspection or hydro jetting for a line that's clogged repeatedly.
The real risk of DIY drain work isn't wasted time, it's making a small problem worse: cracking a fitting, pushing debris further into the line where it's harder to reach, or masking a bigger issue that keeps returning until it becomes a backup. If a simple attempt doesn't clear it in a few minutes, that's usually the signal to stop rather than push harder.
If a drain gurgles, drains slowly, or seems to "burp" air back up even after snaking hasn't turned up any visible debris, a venting issue is worth considering as an alternative explanation. This is more common in older homes where venting was installed to a different, now-outdated code standard, or where a past renovation altered the drain layout without properly accounting for the vent.
Diagnosing this correctly matters because no amount of snaking or jetting fixes a venting problem, and continuing to treat it as a clog wastes both time and money on a repair method that was never going to solve the actual issue.
If you've had a drain snaked multiple times by different people over the years with the same clog returning, it's worth bringing that full history to a new visit rather than starting the diagnosis from scratch each time. A pattern of repeat failures at the same location is itself useful diagnostic information that shouldn't get lost between service calls.
| Single slow fixture, recent onset | Reasonable to try yourself |
|---|---|
| Clog returns within weeks | Call, something structural is likely going on |
| Multiple fixtures backing up together | Call, this is a main line issue |
| Gurgling or sewage smell | Call, this needs proper diagnosis |
QUESTIONS
We'd rather you didn't, especially in older homes with galvanized or cast iron pipe, since the chemicals can accelerate corrosion and make a professional's job harder and less safe.
A quick DIY fix often only punches through the immediate blockage rather than addressing the underlying cause, which is why a recurring clog is worth a proper diagnosis.
Yes, if it's forced hard against real resistance in an older or already-compromised pipe, it can crack a joint or fitting. Gentle effort on a shallow clog is fine; real resistance is a sign to stop.
Snaking punches a hole through a clog to restore flow. Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to scour the entire pipe wall, which clears buildup more thoroughly and tends to hold longer.
For a simple toilet or sink clog, yes, a plunger is a reasonable first step with no real downside.
It's possible, especially if snaking hasn't found any debris and the drain gurgles or seems to struggle for air. We check venting as part of a thorough diagnosis when a straightforward clog doesn't explain the symptoms.
Yes, letting us know a drain has been snaked before and clogged again helps us decide whether to try jetting or a camera inspection instead of repeating the same approach that didn't hold.
Yes, roots can enter through small gaps at pipe joints that aren't a full crack, seeking moisture, which is why a camera inspection is more reliable than a visual guess about root intrusion.
Yes, for a home with older pipes or a history of slow drains, periodic preventive cleaning can catch buildup before it becomes a full clog.
Call and describe what's happening, or read more about our drain cleaning service.